Two weeks of family sailing in Northern Aegean Islands
Map of the Sailing Course
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Fr. 20/07/2007 Athens
00:30AM Arrival at ATH airport. The last train to Athens was at 11:30—the day before! Anyway I am here for the night since Heidi is not arriving before 02:30. I hang around at the luggage delivery area. When I finally doze off on a bench, security signifies me that laying and sleeping is not allowed. No sleep then! I watch security go round and round, waking up people, it’s quite a job!
At 03:30 Heidi arrives, also a bit delayed, no sweat, we won’t go anywhere before the first train at 06:30! It is not the first time I stay overnight in ATH, not a bad deal as airports go, cool, clean and most of the shops and eating places manage to stay open more or less through the night.
07:15 Arrival at the Neo Olympos hotel, near the Larissa train station. The room is not ready, it’s early morning so that doesn’t come as a big surprise.
We take the metro to Monasteraki and drop by the Cecil hotel. A call to Frédéric’s room and after some 10 rings he picks up. Oooops! Too early! We make appointment for lunch and leave for the Acropolis.
The sun is already high and the heat goes up quickly, what has happened to my adaptation to Mediterranean summer? I take to walk in the shade.
Even at this early hour the Acropolis is a blaze, it’s nice however to go around with relatively few people. The restoration works are still going on and will come again to see the result, but when?
This pagan pilgrimage being done we go back to Plaka through the Agora.
I “rediscovered” the Agora last November when I came for my second Athens Marathon. It’s an island of green in the sea of concrete that Athens is. What I remember of it, is the excellent display of the passage of time and civilization in a single place.
At lunch time, the crew is reunited, Audrey is limping badly from her knee injury but on the boat walking should be limited. Plans are made for the next day and the cruise, it will be a visit to Delos for Heidi and going up north to visit new islands and come back along Evia Island (Evvioa).
Sa. 21/07/2007 Athens-Sounion
Egiali Yachting has sent two taxis to pick us up from Cecil hotel. The driver speaks of his village in Northern Greece and of the Island of Chios which we should be able to visit. His wife is from Chios and he speaks of all the uses of mastic resin and its many preparations used for healing purposes including burns. He shows a feint scar on his wrist that was supposed to be an ancient severe burn.
I have seen too little from Northern continental Greece but I heard of it, all I need is more time to go there one day.
We arrive at the Kalamaki Marina. Not much change since my last visit in 1999. The crew then was different.
It’s still before noon, the boat is not yet ready. Heidi and Hellène go for provisions shopping. The children stay and the Egiali people suggest we should sit in the shade on the next boat. Things get organized, papers are processed by one of the co-owner of Egiali, Roula, and her associate, Apostoli, makes the inventory of the boat. Stelios Blue, a Bavaria 37 (11,3 m long) is almost brand new, this is nice in a way but this could mean also facing some trouble shooting to do on the way.
Heidi and Helène come back with a mountain of supplies. Some 160 l of mineral water! We will not go thirsty any time soon! The plan is to make only minimal shopping along the way which is a good idea.
14:20 Setting off from the marina, on engine. Along the Attica peninsula, the wind is very variable in direction and force but mostly lower than in the open Aegean Sea.
We set the sails for a while but have to finish the last nautical miles on engine again. The rolling main sail proves very easy to use. Since only Frederic and I are really trained in sailing, this will be of great help.
The arrival at cape Sounion is marking the actual beginning of the vacation!
"Postcard sunset!"
19:00 We are anchored in the bay of cape Sounion after some one or two tries to find the right distance from the neighboring boats.
We have covered some 23 nautical miles from Athens and that has been a nice "introduction" to sailing.
Su. 22/07/2007 Sounion-Kithnos
Visit of Poseidon Temple, the landing party will be just me and Heidi. It’s early in the day and only a couple of tourist buses have invaded the site. Well, I have visited so often Sounion that I bear with that easily. I have memories of visiting Sounion before and after hours and being able –year back- of walking between the columns and sitting on the warm marble after sunset, such "things"…
Once back to the beach the "dinghy pick-up" is somewhat delayed, the breeze has strengthened and the anchor doesn’t hold anymore. I watch the action from a far until the crew stabilizes the situation with the engine.
At 11:00 we pass the cape under sails en route for Kythnos. The wind doesn’t hold the whole way and the engine is put to use. Passage by the South cape of Kea Island, I was there “before,” more memories… Greece is a land of memories anyway!
17:15 We are anchored at Kythnos Island, by the village of Loutra at the end of Irini cove. We have also a line tying the boat to the shore, for sure the boat will not go anywhere tonight! There is only 20 cm between the keel and the sea bottom but since the tide in the Mediterranean is hardly noticeable I will sleep soundly.
I use the end of the day, to run across the island and back, maybe 20km or so, up and down and a pleasant visit. Although it is close to the mainland, like the islands of Kea and Sifnos, Kithnos seems to have been mostly spared by mass tourism.
Mo. 23/07/2007 Kithnos-Rinia
Leaving 10:30, arriving in Rinia 19:00 using alternatively engine and sails due to wind variable in force.
There is an alarm from the battery charger on the engine control panel, the engine is the first source of misery on sail boats!
The anchoring is a fairly long procedure, the wind is strong and it takes a while to set a line ashore and a stern anchor. There are already a couple of other boats in the best spots of the cove. Rinia is a desolate island but it as a beauty of its own.
Tu. 24/07/2007 Rinia-Mikonos
09:00 Departure from Rinia, passing the strait with Delos Island on engine against a strong wind. Any plan for anchoring there and visiting the site appears to be fairly uncomfortable and we decide to proceed to Mikonos under sails.
12:15 Arrival in Mikonos new marina at the north of the bay, it’s an ugly place some 5km away from Mikonos village but so much better than the ferry port for mooring small yachts like ours. Anyway access of the ferry port is no longer allowed for yachts.
Renting a scooter solves problem for commuting but traffic is dense and parking even for a motorbike is problematic. The visit of the local maritime museum is worthwhile.
The engine alternator alarm persists, but charging is still working fine. We call the base (Allo Houston, we have a problem), no action will change the situation, so we’ll carry on as it is.
We. 25/07/2007 Mikonos
Visit of Delos site using the “tourist ferry.”
The wind has died down in the night and a few yachts are at anchor in the strait.
Delos is a very interesting archaeological site, nothing spectacular but a few hours are enough to have a glimpse of the passage of history in this little place. From trade to religious center to decadence and almost complete destruction…
This is only my second visit but probably not the last, given time!
Back to Mykonos. Yes, the village of Mykonos looks like Greece redesigned by Disney, and merged with a fashion shopping mall for good measure, but it is small scale and pretty. Nevertheless, when cruises ships call in Mykonos it must be better to be somewhere else!
At the marina there is disappointment and loud complains! In the North part of the marina there is presumably a water outlet working with prepaid card but the area has been declared out-out-bound by the maritime police because an American frigate is using the North marina to bring her crew ashore. Since the bombing of their frigate in Aden our American friends are a bit on the defensive it seems! There is even some “secret agent” presence in the marina shower building, with their tie, dark glasses and communication equipment they look all set for the next Hollywood movie!
Mikonos is still an unfriendly place for yachts, as much as it was during my last visit in 99. If it wasn’t to go conveniently to Delos, I would actually recommend avoiding the island altogether.
We. 25/07/2007 Mikonos and night to Ikaria, Th. 26
17:20 Departure from Mikonos on engine with the last tank of water in use!
Water is always a great concern on these small boats. The water system is pressurized and high flow from the taps gives the illusion of plenty. Plenty could actually mean only a couple of days before stopping in a port for filling up and not all ports can supply water in Greece.
The wind is light and a good deal of the 52 nm crossing to Ikaria Island will be on engine.
The moon is out and bright, in the middle of the night we reach the South-West tip of Ikaria and from the land raises a strong and warm wind loaded with the sent from the dry vegetation.
04:00 Arrival at Agios Kiristos and mooring alongside a quay. We are quite exposed to short waves entering the harbor and the rest of night will be quite uncomfortable with the boat springing in its lines.
In the morning we can refill the water tank with the nice assistance from the harbor people.
I would have liked to be able to go through the island again after …what…30 years! My guess is that earthen roads are now paved and all bridges construction completed. Ikaria is a mountain in the sea, not really easy to reach although there are regular ferries and maybe even flight connections since there is an airstrip now across the north tip of the island. Ikaria, is another place to return to, one more!
Th. 26/07/2007 Ikaria-Fournoi
12:00 Departure from Ikaria. This will be a short crossing to the Island of Fournoi with strong gusts of wind at arrival.
The boat is firmly set on two anchors and 2 lines ashore but we are so close to the shore that wind will not really be a problem. The cove of Ormos Marmaro is beautiful, with clear water and a lot of sea life. The small beach is the summer home of a group of naturist, this would have been “unthinkable” some years back but the place is hard to reach on foot and the practice might be more accepted now than it was before.
Fr. 27/07/2007 Fournoi-Chios
I wish I could have stayed somewhat longer and go explore the island but we need to move on if we are to reach Chios Island.
10:00 Departure from Fournoi, with a few hours of sailing against the wind before the wind dies down at the approach of Chios.
19:30 Anchored in Ormos Kamari (Emporios) with a line ashore which will avoid the boat to rotate in the narrow cove in case of wind shifting.
Sa. 28/07/2007 Chios and night to Skiros, Su. 29
"Ormos Kamari (Emporios)"
I was in Chios in the late 60ies and have only a few memories from that first visit, so this second visit is basically a “discovery.” The South of the Island looks like Provence! I set myself for 2 hours of running, this will be all I would see of Chios but I saw it well! I didn’t carry water with me and the one I tasted from a tap in a village had a strange salty tang, probably due to the minerals. Just to play it safe I carried on without drinking, at the end the refreshing dip in the sea to reach the boat was welcomed!
15:30 In the afternoon we change to another mooring at the South-West tip of Chios and we set off in the night for crossing back the Aegean Sea.
21:30 Departure from Chios first on engine but at midnight the wind picks up and I am called on deck. The boat handles very well in the breeze and for the second time only in my sailing experience the sails balance allows the boat to steer by itself. I can even doze off now and then and wake up to find the boat still nicely on course.
The last hours of the 80 nm crossing are on engine and Skyros looks as nice in real as in the guide.
13:30 Anchored at the entrance of the port of Linaria with, again, a line ashore as a guaranty of a good sleep.
Mo. 30/07/2007 Skiros
"The high point of Skyros"
Another 15km "reconnaissance run" in the morning and later on, a visit to the “capital” at the top of the island.. Skyros is a small island but with an interesting agriculture and relaxed people.
Map of the Sailing Course
[Click on pictures will
enlarge in new windows]
Fr. 20/07/2007 Athens
00:30AM Arrival at ATH airport. The last train to Athens was at 11:30—the day before! Anyway I am here for the night since Heidi is not arriving before 02:30. I hang around at the luggage delivery area. When I finally doze off on a bench, security signifies me that laying and sleeping is not allowed. No sleep then! I watch security go round and round, waking up people, it’s quite a job!
At 03:30 Heidi arrives, also a bit delayed, no sweat, we won’t go anywhere before the first train at 06:30! It is not the first time I stay overnight in ATH, not a bad deal as airports go, cool, clean and most of the shops and eating places manage to stay open more or less through the night.
07:15 Arrival at the Neo Olympos hotel, near the Larissa train station. The room is not ready, it’s early morning so that doesn’t come as a big surprise.
We take the metro to Monasteraki and drop by the Cecil hotel. A call to Frédéric’s room and after some 10 rings he picks up. Oooops! Too early! We make appointment for lunch and leave for the Acropolis.
The sun is already high and the heat goes up quickly, what has happened to my adaptation to Mediterranean summer? I take to walk in the shade.Even at this early hour the Acropolis is a blaze, it’s nice however to go around with relatively few people. The restoration works are still going on and will come again to see the result, but when?
This pagan pilgrimage being done we go back to Plaka through the Agora.
I “rediscovered” the Agora last November when I came for my second Athens Marathon. It’s an island of green in the sea of concrete that Athens is. What I remember of it, is the excellent display of the passage of time and civilization in a single place.
At lunch time, the crew is reunited, Audrey is limping badly from her knee injury but on the boat walking should be limited. Plans are made for the next day and the cruise, it will be a visit to Delos for Heidi and going up north to visit new islands and come back along Evia Island (Evvioa).
Sa. 21/07/2007 Athens-Sounion
Egiali Yachting has sent two taxis to pick us up from Cecil hotel. The driver speaks of his village in Northern Greece and of the Island of Chios which we should be able to visit. His wife is from Chios and he speaks of all the uses of mastic resin and its many preparations used for healing purposes including burns. He shows a feint scar on his wrist that was supposed to be an ancient severe burn.
I have seen too little from Northern continental Greece but I heard of it, all I need is more time to go there one day.
We arrive at the Kalamaki Marina. Not much change since my last visit in 1999. The crew then was different.
It’s still before noon, the boat is not yet ready. Heidi and Hellène go for provisions shopping. The children stay and the Egiali people suggest we should sit in the shade on the next boat. Things get organized, papers are processed by one of the co-owner of Egiali, Roula, and her associate, Apostoli, makes the inventory of the boat. Stelios Blue, a Bavaria 37 (11,3 m long) is almost brand new, this is nice in a way but this could mean also facing some trouble shooting to do on the way.Heidi and Helène come back with a mountain of supplies. Some 160 l of mineral water! We will not go thirsty any time soon! The plan is to make only minimal shopping along the way which is a good idea.
14:20 Setting off from the marina, on engine. Along the Attica peninsula, the wind is very variable in direction and force but mostly lower than in the open Aegean Sea.
We set the sails for a while but have to finish the last nautical miles on engine again. The rolling main sail proves very easy to use. Since only Frederic and I are really trained in sailing, this will be of great help.
The arrival at cape Sounion is marking the actual beginning of the vacation!
"Postcard sunset!"
19:00 We are anchored in the bay of cape Sounion after some one or two tries to find the right distance from the neighboring boats.We have covered some 23 nautical miles from Athens and that has been a nice "introduction" to sailing.
Su. 22/07/2007 Sounion-Kithnos
Visit of Poseidon Temple, the landing party will be just me and Heidi. It’s early in the day and only a couple of tourist buses have invaded the site. Well, I have visited so often Sounion that I bear with that easily. I have memories of visiting Sounion before and after hours and being able –year back- of walking between the columns and sitting on the warm marble after sunset, such "things"…Once back to the beach the "dinghy pick-up" is somewhat delayed, the breeze has strengthened and the anchor doesn’t hold anymore. I watch the action from a far until the crew stabilizes the situation with the engine.
At 11:00 we pass the cape under sails en route for Kythnos. The wind doesn’t hold the whole way and the engine is put to use. Passage by the South cape of Kea Island, I was there “before,” more memories… Greece is a land of memories anyway!
17:15 We are anchored at Kythnos Island, by the village of Loutra at the end of Irini cove. We have also a line tying the boat to the shore, for sure the boat will not go anywhere tonight! There is only 20 cm between the keel and the sea bottom but since the tide in the Mediterranean is hardly noticeable I will sleep soundly.I use the end of the day, to run across the island and back, maybe 20km or so, up and down and a pleasant visit. Although it is close to the mainland, like the islands of Kea and Sifnos, Kithnos seems to have been mostly spared by mass tourism.
Mo. 23/07/2007 Kithnos-Rinia
Leaving 10:30, arriving in Rinia 19:00 using alternatively engine and sails due to wind variable in force.There is an alarm from the battery charger on the engine control panel, the engine is the first source of misery on sail boats!
The anchoring is a fairly long procedure, the wind is strong and it takes a while to set a line ashore and a stern anchor. There are already a couple of other boats in the best spots of the cove. Rinia is a desolate island but it as a beauty of its own.
Tu. 24/07/2007 Rinia-Mikonos
09:00 Departure from Rinia, passing the strait with Delos Island on engine against a strong wind. Any plan for anchoring there and visiting the site appears to be fairly uncomfortable and we decide to proceed to Mikonos under sails.
12:15 Arrival in Mikonos new marina at the north of the bay, it’s an ugly place some 5km away from Mikonos village but so much better than the ferry port for mooring small yachts like ours. Anyway access of the ferry port is no longer allowed for yachts.
Renting a scooter solves problem for commuting but traffic is dense and parking even for a motorbike is problematic. The visit of the local maritime museum is worthwhile.
The engine alternator alarm persists, but charging is still working fine. We call the base (Allo Houston, we have a problem), no action will change the situation, so we’ll carry on as it is.
We. 25/07/2007 Mikonos
Visit of Delos site using the “tourist ferry.”The wind has died down in the night and a few yachts are at anchor in the strait.
Delos is a very interesting archaeological site, nothing spectacular but a few hours are enough to have a glimpse of the passage of history in this little place. From trade to religious center to decadence and almost complete destruction…
This is only my second visit but probably not the last, given time!
Back to Mykonos. Yes, the village of Mykonos looks like Greece redesigned by Disney, and merged with a fashion shopping mall for good measure, but it is small scale and pretty. Nevertheless, when cruises ships call in Mykonos it must be better to be somewhere else!
At the marina there is disappointment and loud complains! In the North part of the marina there is presumably a water outlet working with prepaid card but the area has been declared out-out-bound by the maritime police because an American frigate is using the North marina to bring her crew ashore. Since the bombing of their frigate in Aden our American friends are a bit on the defensive it seems! There is even some “secret agent” presence in the marina shower building, with their tie, dark glasses and communication equipment they look all set for the next Hollywood movie!
Mikonos is still an unfriendly place for yachts, as much as it was during my last visit in 99. If it wasn’t to go conveniently to Delos, I would actually recommend avoiding the island altogether.
We. 25/07/2007 Mikonos and night to Ikaria, Th. 26
17:20 Departure from Mikonos on engine with the last tank of water in use!
Water is always a great concern on these small boats. The water system is pressurized and high flow from the taps gives the illusion of plenty. Plenty could actually mean only a couple of days before stopping in a port for filling up and not all ports can supply water in Greece.
The wind is light and a good deal of the 52 nm crossing to Ikaria Island will be on engine.
The moon is out and bright, in the middle of the night we reach the South-West tip of Ikaria and from the land raises a strong and warm wind loaded with the sent from the dry vegetation.
04:00 Arrival at Agios Kiristos and mooring alongside a quay. We are quite exposed to short waves entering the harbor and the rest of night will be quite uncomfortable with the boat springing in its lines.
In the morning we can refill the water tank with the nice assistance from the harbor people.
I would have liked to be able to go through the island again after …what…30 years! My guess is that earthen roads are now paved and all bridges construction completed. Ikaria is a mountain in the sea, not really easy to reach although there are regular ferries and maybe even flight connections since there is an airstrip now across the north tip of the island. Ikaria, is another place to return to, one more!
Th. 26/07/2007 Ikaria-Fournoi
12:00 Departure from Ikaria. This will be a short crossing to the Island of Fournoi with strong gusts of wind at arrival.The boat is firmly set on two anchors and 2 lines ashore but we are so close to the shore that wind will not really be a problem. The cove of Ormos Marmaro is beautiful, with clear water and a lot of sea life. The small beach is the summer home of a group of naturist, this would have been “unthinkable” some years back but the place is hard to reach on foot and the practice might be more accepted now than it was before.
Fr. 27/07/2007 Fournoi-Chios
I wish I could have stayed somewhat longer and go explore the island but we need to move on if we are to reach Chios Island.10:00 Departure from Fournoi, with a few hours of sailing against the wind before the wind dies down at the approach of Chios.
19:30 Anchored in Ormos Kamari (Emporios) with a line ashore which will avoid the boat to rotate in the narrow cove in case of wind shifting.
Sa. 28/07/2007 Chios and night to Skiros, Su. 29
"Ormos Kamari (Emporios)"
I was in Chios in the late 60ies and have only a few memories from that first visit, so this second visit is basically a “discovery.” The South of the Island looks like Provence! I set myself for 2 hours of running, this will be all I would see of Chios but I saw it well! I didn’t carry water with me and the one I tasted from a tap in a village had a strange salty tang, probably due to the minerals. Just to play it safe I carried on without drinking, at the end the refreshing dip in the sea to reach the boat was welcomed!15:30 In the afternoon we change to another mooring at the South-West tip of Chios and we set off in the night for crossing back the Aegean Sea.
21:30 Departure from Chios first on engine but at midnight the wind picks up and I am called on deck. The boat handles very well in the breeze and for the second time only in my sailing experience the sails balance allows the boat to steer by itself. I can even doze off now and then and wake up to find the boat still nicely on course.
The last hours of the 80 nm crossing are on engine and Skyros looks as nice in real as in the guide.
13:30 Anchored at the entrance of the port of Linaria with, again, a line ashore as a guaranty of a good sleep.
Mo. 30/07/2007 Skiros
"The high point of Skyros"
Another 15km "reconnaissance run" in the morning and later on, a visit to the “capital” at the top of the island.. Skyros is a small island but with an interesting agriculture and relaxed people."Cliffs from South Skyros"
After filling the water tanks and the fuel tank we move to another mooring in the South after motoring a few meters from the sea cliffs. Skyros may rate high among Greek Islands for one looking for a peaceful and interesting place.
Tu. 31/07/2007 Skiros-Evvoia
"Kalamos"
13:00 Departure from Skiros and crossing to Evvoia Island partly on sail, partly on engine. The target is Ormos Kalamos which is “the beach” of my younger years. At that time it could only been reached after an hour on a rocky road but now the road is of course paved and a few building have grown where the roads end. However, the site is rather well preserved.The small reed huts that where rented to Athenian tourists during the summer are no longer used and have been replaced by ordinary camping tents.
Finally I go ashore to reset the lines and step on razor like shale rocks, I know these rocks, I remember, I am “home!”
The boat is anchored a bit exposed to the waves but just for one night is will do. Last time I was in Kalamos it was in 82 but it is always nice to return. No time to wander around, not this trip anyway!
We. 01/08/2007 Along Evvoia Island
09:30 Departure toward the South of Evvoia, we need to get in range for the return of the boat. The trip is mostly on sail along the island, there is almost no sheltered point until the south cape. Evvoia is very big, almost part of mainland since it is very close to the Attica.18:45 Anchored in Ormos Kastri.
Th. 02/08/2007 Evvoia- Megalo Petali
Another run on the earthen road along the coast, the wind is strong in the Kafires strait between Evvoia and the island of Andros.
We are out of gas for the stove and we will need to stop over at Karistos.
14:30 Departure from Ormos Kastri, with a strong wind which progressively dies down.
"Karisto"
16:30 Stop over at Karisto to purchase a gas refill. All shops are still more or less closed.In my younger years Karistos was synonymous of an adventure place which could only be reached by ferry or after a long and difficult road through Evvoia..It is still a bit “out of the way” and a very nice small city set against beautiful mountains. Wind generator have mushroomed on Greek mountains but these are rather “elegant machines.”
18:25 Departure from Karistos and arrival to the island of Megalo Petali, at 20:00.
The cove of Ormos Vasiliko is quite beautiful but the best spot is occupied and we set the anchor in a bit more exposed place. While setting a line ashore I notice nasty rock blades underwater. The anchor is clutched in rocks and the line is taut, however I will wake up from time to check that the boat is not shifting.
Fr. 03/08/2007 Megalo Petali-Lavrio
"Morning at Ormos Vasiliko"
First job in the morning is to free the anchor from the rock by guiding the boat around with the dinghy and a mask (procedure only good for the Mediterranean Sea in summer!)Some time is spent on anchor in the bay for a swim before setting off for the last day of sailing.
12:00 Departure from Ormos Vasiliko, to arrive at the entrance of the bay of Porto Rafti at 14:10
I have visited Porto Rafti recently and it is not a surprise that the built area has spread quite a lot since the early 70ies, this is the consequence of being so close to Athens. Porto Rafti is not ugly but the town it is not charming either, if it ever was!
The bay itself is unchanged (it is the picture of the heading of this blog,) this is the place where I have learned the basics of sailing, so this is another “pilgrimage!” The island at the entrance of the bay is named Nisis Raftis on the chart but at that time it was only “the big island” and I have never set foot on it. The island officially named Vrak Raftopoula was of course for me“the 2nd island” and it was the further point I ever reached in my dingy under paddle propulsion.
"The small Island"
The cape of Akra Pounda which was “the cape” that I passed after long hour of tacking with my dinghy. Nisis Prasho or “the small island” was the closed to the house and was within swimming distance, I even camped there once.16:30 Sailing out of Porto Rafti to arrive at 18:30 in the port of Lavrio.
That will be the last night on the boat with the noise of the port, the heat and some stray mosquitoes!
A word for the end
Too short! Way too short! I had not enough time to go ashore as much as I wanted to.
If I sum up the time I need in Greece to visit places again and time for those I still want to see, it comes up to several months! I heard only good things about the Northern Aegean islands; there is also Karpathos Island, etc…
I would also need my own boat for that but this, is another story...
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